Friday Post: Restorative Make-Up For The Morning After…

I haven’t drunk nearly enough this week for the following information to be truly useful so am relying on you to go out tonight and get utterly in your cups, just so’s you can give it a fair go tomorrow morning. And before you mention last Tuesday, I’m talking pink-eyed, pale-faced, dead-and-dug-up-again hungover, which unhappily for the purposes of this post I was not quite. Must try harder.

Anyway, I know it’ll work because make-up artist Lee Pycroft told me so and she really is the bees knees of beauty. Do I say that about every make-up artist? Probably. But you can tell from the following pearls that she knows what she’s talking about.

‘The key to morning-after make-up is to be as artful as possible,’ says Lee. ‘Dehydrated skin can’t carry off as much as you’d usually apply, which means having to achieve much more with a lot less. Really it’s about getting your formulations spot on, knowing where to put them and when to stop.’ So…

Lancôme Teint Miracle

Foundation: choose luminising formulations, says Lee – these rely less on pigment and more on reflective particles to brighten and disguise, so the textures are lighter and the shades less mask-like. ‘Focus on your nose and cheeks – getting this area sorted will give the impression your whole face is smooth and uniform. And press your foundation on with your fingers so that the warmth helps it adhere to your skin – that way you won’t need to apply as much to get good coverage.’

Lee loves Lancôme Teint Miracle (£25). For something even lighter try Laura Mercier Illuminating Tinted Moisturiser (£32). For something less dewy but still glowy try By Terry Plumping Fluid Foundation (£58). And if none of those do it for you, write to Clinique and ask them why-oh-why did they discontinue Gentle Light Makeup?

Concealer: rather than loading up the delicate (and currently unreceptive) skin right underneath the eye aim for the corners instead, says Lee. ‘Shadows are usually darkest at the inner and outer corners so take a fine brush and get a highly-pigmented concealer right in there. If you still need help afterwards try something light-reflective (but not too shimmery) over the top – the two textures work really well together.’

Apply Mac Pro Longwear Concealer (£12.50) or Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Concealer (£18) with something like the Daniel Sandler Concealer Brush (£12) and add Clinique Airbrush (£15) over the top if needed.

Benefit Girl Meets Pearl

Highlighter: this will put back lost lustre and restore dimension to a face that probably looks a little flat right now. As well as the regular zones (cheekbones, under the arches of your brows and on the bridge of your nose) try a dot in the middle of each eyelid, says Lee.  ‘It’s a clever trick – glossy eyelids make your whole face look fresher.’ Backtracking a little bit it’s also a good idea to stick a bit of foundation on your eyelids when you do your base, says Lee, as they can look red and puffy when you’re short on sleep/long on booze.

Lancôme Éclat Miracle (£19.50) and MAC Strobe Liquid (£21) both have a blue-pink two-tone that looks especially fresh in the cold light of winter. If your skintone needs something warmer try the golden-pink of Benefit Girl Meets Pearl (£24.50) – I’d probably use the first two during the day, and the latter at night.

Lipstick Queen Oxymoron

Blush: something creamy and neutral, says Lee – that way you can press anything left on your fingers into the sockets of your eyes. This will do a quicker and better job of opening them up than messing around with eyeshadow and really does work, much as you’d think putting pink-on-pink might be madness (and on that note, Lee also recommends whizzing a concealer pencil around your inner lashline if you’re looking a little red-eyed, try Illamasqua Medium Pencil in Vow, £12).

Lipstick Queen Oxymoron (£19.50) is the one thing that may save you right now – think of it as the defibrillator of your make-up bag.

Mascara: to define lashes without overloading, build them up at the base then let them taper off to the merest flutter. This means wriggling your mascara in at the roots and whisking it out again (the shape of the brush is just as important as the formulation, says Lee, who recommends Chanel Inimitable, which has a classic pointed brush rather than a comb). And for a natural-looking curl try using the very tip of the wand to push the ends of your lashes up as the mascara dries, she adds.

Mac Lip Pencil

Try Chanel Inimitable (£21.50), but not the newer Intense version – too heavy for our purposes, says Lee. I’d also recommend Sue Devitt Black Widow Mascara but I can’t find anywhere other than as part of a kit on QVC. I’ll carry on looking, as it’s a truly wonderful thing – light, fluttery and lengthening.

Lip colour: pencil, to be precise, says Lee – it’s the best way to get colour back into your lips without looking too painted. She recommends pinkish shades with beige undertones, drawn all over then pressed in with your finger. You should still be able to see the texture of the skin underneath – think of it as embellishing your own tones rather than covering them up.’

Try MAC Lip Pencil in Dervish (£10) or Bobbi Brown Lip Crayon in Posey (£18.50)

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